Destruction, Death, and Exile in the Village
Coming over the mountains to the south side of the island is like entering a different world. Whereas the rest of Samoa is waterlogged...
Me, Myself, Matai
It turns out that receiving a chief title, becoming a matai, is a much bigger deal than I thought. If you do not inherit your title, it...
That's Gratitude for Ya
Happy post-Easter. Here in Samoa it’s an all-weekend holiday of church-going and pageants by the children. Friday, Saturday, Sunday,...
Bump, Set, Samoa
So the guys tell me they love to play volleyball. I’ve played some myself, so I think maybe I’ll join them in a pick up game. The court...
Nestle's Quick, Samoa Slow
Hankering for a cup of hot chocolate? Grab a can from the shelf and scoop out some powder and add water? Not so fast, American—like...
Surviving a Day at the Beach is no Picnic
One day, Tavae asks me if I want to go to “survivor’s beach.” Of course, I don’t understand what he’s talking about, because one: I...
Day of Rest : Sunday in Matafa'a
The incredible experiences are piling up so fast I can’t write about one without the next one happening and clouding the details of the...
Cock-a-doodle-snooze
Matafaa, Samoa If you’ve ever spent any time in a rural area like this, or on a farm, you know that the romantic notion of a single...
Chief Drop In
Matafaa, Samoa The other night I was sleeping—early, admittedly, about 9 p.m.—when the door opens and in comes the high chief, the man...
Umu Day
It’s hard to put into words, so much was going on when I arrived at Tuilagi’s house for umu—the traditional meal cooked in a pile of hot...
